The Journal News | Foodline section
New Tastes at an Area Favorite
By Judith Hausman

A large convivial group and a jolly, well-informed waiter did make for a great evening. However, the lively weekend crowd may have strained the cuisine as well. On both visits we were trying out the menu of new chef Giovanni Sias, originally from Sardinia. The new menu did show some seasonal thought ( although I guess customers want caprese, even with winter tomatoes)...

Other appetizers were more interesting. Thick, chewy rings of calamari mixed textures with creamy, garlicky hummus. Current owner Dominic Avelluto, who took over from Manhattan restaurateur Tony May over five years ago, explained that chick peas are an important part of Sardinian cuisine. "We eat differently in each region of Italy," said Avelluto.

A sformatino resembles a rich quiche without the pie shell or vegetable soufflé without the egg whites. This little mushroom one at Hostaria Mazzei was delicate but risked being overpowered by too much cheese sauce. A simple salad with shards of oil-packed tuna and good olives was not bad but baby arugula salad was better, lightly dressed and topped with planks of Parmesan. 

We had good luck with our wine choice. From a long, ranging wine list that naturally focuses on Italy, we landed on Dolcetto d'Alba Oberto 2003, reasonable at $32. This very drinkable, food-friendly red was round and bright with strawberry and plum flavors forward and good staying power throughout our meal. The house Chianti by the glass was satisfactory as well.

Avelluto's description of his mother, cooking quickly for him when he arrived home after a late night carousing, made me want a plateful of the spaghetti San Giovanello right now. This simply appealing sauce of grape tomatoes, salty capers and fragrant olive oil tasted as good as it sounded. Fresh tuna and artichokes is also a natural for pasta, a combination that Sias is especially proud of. 

Our seafood entrees were the best choices. Large grilled shrimp were just this side of overcooked but not much interfered with that great grill taste and the broccoli di rabe with them was not overdosed with garlic or oil. Hands down best of show was a whole branzino, presented and then elegantly de-boned tableside. The sweet, simple fish, allowed to speak for itself, showed the finesse I had hoped to find across the board at Hostaria Mazzei. The Dover sole we tried another evening was also delicate and expertly filleted; less butter sauce would have been even better.

Desserts are often neglected but, surprisingly, sweets at Hostaria Mazzei were creative and well-executed. "Giovanni is an amazing pastry chef," said Avelluto. ... The semifreddo was exactly the right consistency; not melted, not icy. Bits of cherry and almond created a classic flavor pair. The creme caramel was light green with minced sage, a lovely herbal change of pace that matches a winter palate. Light yet rich, the chamomile-scented panna cotta was also delicious, if not a little sticky on the second try.

High points were the whole fish and a couple of unpredictably stand out dishes. Overall the kitchen seemed to fare better on a less crowded weeknight. And desserts were certainly a pleasant surprise. 

In brief: Proudly "real Italian," Hostaria Mazzei is an area favorite with a new menu.